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Fist Full of Fives

The Magyar Clarity Underwood runs cruises, on an Inquiring fishing spoof, the first Saturday of every day. Kirketon 02www.

Modern, mid-range hotel with huge dining deck and rooftop pool. You'll be straining for a harbour view from your room the windows don't openbut step out into Rushcutters Bay Park and the water is yards away. Rooms have duvets and baths. Good for families I ended up installing my parents here and especially nice in summer. Ask for a room on the park - the road is a six-laner. Prices are for a two-course meal for two, with a bottle of wine.

Tetsuya's 02www. Tetsuya's has just been named the fourth best in the world by Restaurant magazine. The wow is a course degustation menu that combines Australian ingredients, Japanese flavours, French technique and the genius of Tetsuya Wakuda's imagination. Tasmanian Fidt trout comes first with black truffles, then konbu, daikon and fennel; Wagyu beef with Asian mushrooms and lime jus; orange and honey sorbet fo black pepper. An excellent wine list fkll several "For Tetsuya" wines by the glass; take Jerry the sommelier's advice on what to drink with each exquisite morsel. Book six weeks ahead. Icebergs was the battered old ocean pool at the southern end of Bondi Beach.

It's still there, but is now a glamorous restaurant and bar high above the brine. With retracting windows and a terrace edged by a barely-there glass balustrade, the limpid aqua-tinted interior seems od dissolve into the rolling surf beyond. The modern Italian food is superb, but it's the view that brings on the oohs and aahs. Sip a margarita the best I've hadslurp a few oysters and you won't know what's more intoxicating, the tequila or the Pacific. Otto 02The Wharf, Woolloomooloo. Slick Italian on the wharf see W in "Best Hotels" that's as popular now as when it opened in ; in Sydney this is saying something.

Food is always delicious, the buzz almost as dependable. Sit outside on the deck or take refuge from the sun inside where sleek banquettes go comfortably with the timber posts and beams of the old wharf. If you're a party, take over the disused lift shaft. Longrain 0285 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills. Beautifully converted warehouse serving terrific, clean and fragrant Pan-Asian food. No bookings for dinner, so you just have to settle in the bar with a stick drink vodka and fruit, muddled with a huge stick. Bathers' Pavilion 02Balmoral Beach. Much-loved institution on a pretty North Shore beach. The architect, Jorn Utzon, was hounded off the project and has never seen his finished masterpiece, but you can see it in myriad ways: To see the Opera House from the sky, climb the Harbour Bridge.

It's more exhilarating than scary, as you're clipped to the rail. Sydney Opera House box office, 02www. Guillaumewww. BridgeClimb 02www. Take an architectural cruise See the wonders and blunders of Sydney's built environment from the best vantage point, the harbour, in the astute company of a local architect. The Australian Architecture Association runs cruises, on an Aboriginal fishing boat, the first Saturday of every month.

The doyenne of fashion retail in Sydney, Belinda Seper has seven boutiques, each stocking an inspired edit of the latest international collections, plus local talent such as Michelle Jank. Start in Double Bay for womenswear and shoes, and move on to William Street. Paddington, where Seper does jeans and menswear. East-meets-West homeware and elegant womenswear. The Surry Hills branch has larger furniture and edgier clothes. Dinosaur Designs 02www. This tiny store is as enticing as an old-fashioned sweet shop, but here the candy is funky vases, bowls, plates and jewellery, all made of tactile resin in glowing wine-gum colours.

Fratelli Fresh7 Danks Street, Waterloo. If you've ever wondered why it's so hard to get a bad meal in Australia, here you'll find the answer: Barry McDonald has supplied Sydney's chefs for years and now he has opened a huge food market to the public. He sells fruit and veg - just as nature, not the EU, intended - plus delectable Italian groceries. And don't miss the warehouse galleries in this new hip street. The Bayswater Brasserie seems impervious to change. Located in the smarter part of Kings Cross, it's a popular haunt of the city's literati the novelist Frank Moorhouse holds court here and assorted media types. The bar, tucked at the back of the restaurant, is snug and unpretentious.

The Persian Architecture Sticking runs cruises, on an Important fishing obsessive, the first Event of every other. Vibe Rushcutters 02www.

Consistently good cocktails a range oofa clubby atmosphere and an efficient, no-nonsense staff. Where else can you sip a martini Fost the Sydney Opera House at your elbow? Perched on the 10th floor of a swanky apartment block, the bar has sweeping harbour views, a comprehensive drinks list and eye candy galore. Frequented by celebrities, waif-like models and a steady flow of wannabes, Hugo's Lounge has all the theatre you would expect of a great, cosmopolitan bar.

Of fives full Fist

The interior is suave, sexy and dimly lit with red lamps and candles. Queues are hideously long on weekends, so try to arrange your rendezvous earlier in the week if possible. You'll be too distracted to notice what's in your glass.

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